My Perfect Weekend in Melbourne by National Gallery of Victoria Director Tony Ellwood

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This article is part of FT Globetrotter guide to Melbourne

Like all Melburnians, my weekend starts with coffee. The coffee culture here is world-renowned – it was first introduced by Italian immigrants in the post-war period, and we’ve been perfecting the perfect cup ever since.

With toy poodles Daisy and Onslow in tow, at weekends I like to visit Studley Park Boathouse, on the banks of the winding Yarra/Birrarung River. Situated in the sprawling Yarra Bend Park, the recently restored Edwardian boathouse is the oldest continuously operating public structure of its kind on the river and offers formal and casual dining options. There’s no better place to start the weekend than on your riverside deck with a flat white and your chili scrambled eggs.

Fully caffeinated, it’s time to explore Smith, Gertrude and Brunswick Streets, lined with independent boutiques, fashion retailers and art galleries. One of my favorites is local menswear designer Christian Kimber, who produces chic and casual classics with impeccable craftsmanship and materials. And my friends are often decked out from head to toe in quintessential Melbourne brands Alpha60 and ESS Laboratory, whose designs offer a creative fusion of traditional Japanese and contemporary aesthetics.

Art lovers should also visit nearby Collingwood Yards, a collection of galleries and artists’ studios located in a former technical college. The building is a striking example of Art Deco architecture and features a mural by Keith Haring, who visited Melbourne in 1984.

On weekends, I sometimes go to the NGV to receive works of art, give lectures or take tours of our permanent collection of 75 thousand pieces. This month, I’m excited about the opening of the blockbuster exhibition Pharaoh, a celebration of 3,000 years of ancient Egyptian art and culture through more than 500 pieces on loan from the British Museum. It is the largest international exhibition that the museum presents in its 270 years of history.

With its famous intersecting streets known as the Hoddle Grid, Melbourne’s city center is wonderfully walkable – a flâneur’s dream come true. With much of the Victorian architecture from the gold rush era surviving to this day, nearly every street corner features a confection of grand arches, domes, and columns. I also love getting lost in the network of alleys and alleys, home to cafes, wine bars and hidden shops. Hosier Lane is a kaleidoscopic celebration of Melbourne’s street art culture, with new murals, stencils and collages appearing almost daily. On the corner of Flinders Lane and Russell St, Gimlet, owned by local restaurateur Andrew McConnell, is one of my favorite places for a long lunch. I recommend starting with the restaurant’s namesake – a classic gimlet cocktail – and ordering the pan-roasted John Dory if it’s on the menu.

While you’re in the city center (or the CBD as the locals call it), you’d be remiss if you didn’t visit ACMI (Australian Center for the Moving Image), our national museum of global film and screen culture, as well as the Koorie Heritage Trust, a meeting place and cultural center celebrating the rich culture of the First Nations people of the southeast corner of Australia. On display at the Trust until mid-July is JXSH MVIR: Forever I livean exhibition of works by the late artist Gunditjmara, Yorta Yorta and Barkindji Josh Muir, which employed a colorful street art vocabulary to interrogate themes of culture, identity and colonialisation.

For dinner, it’s time to head south of the river to France-Soir, a Melbourne institution for almost 40 years that serves brasserie-style classics in a cozy, unpretentious space – and the best place in town for people watching . This place is full of nighttime energy and attracts people from all walks of life, from champion football players to important artists. They also serve the best fries this side of Paris.

On Sunday, it’s time for a day trip. One of the best things about Melbourne is its proximity to nature. There are wine regions to the east, gold mines to the west, stunning coastlines to the south – and it’s all within a 90-minute drive of the city center.

In summer, a visit to Point Leo Estate on the Mornington Peninsula is a must. The clifftop property is home to 50 acres of vineyards overlooking the ocean, two restaurants (and a wine terrace), and a sculpture park featuring large-scale works by Inge King, KAWS, Yayoi Kusama, and more. I also recently visited the garden-to-table Tedesca Osteria, a moody 30-seat, wood-paneled venue where chef Brigitte Hafner plans ever-changing menus around locally grown produce and a “whole animal” philosophy that minimizes the waste.

In the cooler months, a visit to the TarraWarra Art Museum – and the cool-climate wineries of the picturesque Yarra Valley – is the perfect way to spend a cozy afternoon. For music lovers, a visit to nearby Coombe Cottage, the country home of iconic Melbourne-born soprano Dame Nellie Melba, is essential. You can take a tour of the historic house and manicured gardens or simply enjoy a glass of single-vineyard wines grown on the property. How delightful.

Tony Ellwood AM is the director of National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne, which is a member of Australia’s Cultural Attractionsa collective of 17 major cultural, historical and sporting attractions offering curated, pre-booked travel experiences

What are your highlights in Melbourne and beyond? Tell us in the comments below. Follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter